Sustainability, fashion retail and the economy

The clothing mountain in Chile's Atacama Desert was visible from space. Image by SKYFI via BBC
BBC article: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-66985595
Skyfi article: https://skyfi.com/en/blog/skyfis-confirms-massive-clothes-pile-in-chile

Buying and wearing second-hand clothing is on the up

It's currently increasingly popular to buy goods second-hand, especially clothes. I'm a fan. I've been buying second-hand since I was a teenager, and growing up, I got my cousin's hand-me-downs so wearing gently-used clothing is not a new thing for me. It seems others are catching up with me as suggested by this FT article. 

Can it be profitable?

It's all much more accessible now, of course, with the rise of eBay, DePop, Vinted, Thrift+, Vestiaire Collective et al. That said, the price per garment that one can achieve on most of these platforms is next to nothing. In fact, the postage cost is often more than the garment cost. The effort to put something on sale is often more trouble than it's worth. And the economics bears that out with most of these platforms finding it very hard to turn a profit. 

So. Much. Stuff.

A quick glance at any of these platforms goes to show just how much perfectly good and usable clothing there is out there. And how much dross there is - I'm looking at you, Shein and Temu. And that's the tip of the iceberg. I'm afraid I am guilty of having way too many clothes that could easily last me more than one lifetime. Yes, I need a good clearout, but it also shows how much oversupply there is. I know I am not alone in having too much stuff. And that's just the second-hand clothes sector.

If you look at the new stock availability, it is endless. I recently visited London's Petticoat Lane on a Sunday. There are over a thousand stalls there selling new stock - a lot of it is overstock from High Street and online fashion stores and their suppliers. The amount of stuff available made me feel physically sick. Some of it was relatively high end and being sold for £5 or £10. And this is *overstock*, i.e. surplus to requirements.

And this just leads to waste, mountains of it, since so many clothes end up in landfills, as highlighted in this BBC article and this article by Skyfi.

Shops are everywhere

That brings me to the High Street, both virtual and physical. It's a global shopping mall where you can buy everything and anything - a lot of it very cheaply. There are shops everywhere you look selling you something. There are clothes to be bought everywhere and extended opening hours in many shops meaning fewer staff are working at any one time because they're spread so thinly - the same number (or less) of staff spread over longer hours. (And they wonder why shoplifting is on the increase; well, staffing levels are one of the reasons.) As a former fashion retail manager in the early 1990s, this is something I've been watching evolve over the last 3 decades.

It's the economy, stupid

The retail sector employs a lot of people and the money earned from those jobs pays rent and mortgages, transport, food, holidays, entertainment, utilities and more. It's a hugely important part of our economy. According to Statista approximately 3.5million people work in the retail sector in the UK and information from a recent House of Commons Library research briefing paper states that the economic output of the retail industry was £112.9billion in 2023, accounting for 4.9% of the UK's total output. That's a lot and if it reduces, we have to work out how to manage the shortfall in the economy and what to do with the people who have lost their jobs. It's a not insignificant task.

I get that retailer margins can be very slim. I get that they're in an extremely competitive market, and they need to have enough of the right stock in the right place at the right time. Seriously though, how can it be a positive to be creating so much stuff that will never be bought or used and will just end up in landfill or on some container ship on its way to a poor country and leaving them to deal with the mess. And what about the energy wasted on making stuff no-one is going to buy? Or the time spent thinking up new fast fashion items that nobody wants or needs when that brain power could be going to something more useful and less greedy on our natural resources?

External pressures can force change

The external pressures are changing. The word sustainability crops up all the time. What do we do with the mountains of rubbish we're creating? How do we stop succumbing to fast fashion (which creates stuff that is not attractive to the second-hand market)? And what happens when consumers really do change their attitudes and stop buying nearly so much at all - new or second-hand? There's a lot of talk about reviving our High Streets, but when many of us actively buy less and/or switch to second-hand goods, what happens to our High Streets, and, in turn, the economy?

There are things I really love about the physical retail sector. It's a buzz to be selling to a customer and finding the exact right outfit for them for a special occasion. It's fun to get to know your regular customers and have conversations with new people every day. I love the bright lights and buzz of Oxford Street. And as a consumer, I love wearing new (to me) clothes and putting outfits together. in creative ways. But at what cost? The cumulative effect of my own consumption, multiplied by the millions of other women and men like me is terrifying. Inadvertently, our behaviour has led to this massive oversupply of stuff.

Are we at a tipping point for change? 

Answers on a postcard please..

Meanwhile, you might be interested in taking part in Second Hand September if you're in the UK.