Tuesday, September 03, 2024

Sustainability, fashion retail and the economy

The clothing mountain in Chile's Atacama Desert was visible from space. Image by SKYFI via BBC
BBC article: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-66985595
Skyfi article: 
https://skyfi.com/en/blog/skyfis-confirms-massive-clothes-pile-in-chile

Buying and wearing second-hand clothing is on the up

It's currently increasingly popular to buy goods second-hand, especially clothes. I'm a fan. I've been buying second-hand since I was a teenager, and growing up, I got my cousin's hand-me-downs so wearing gently-used clothing is not a new thing for me. It seems others are catching up with me as suggested by this FT article

Can it be profitable?

It's all much more accessible now, of course, with the rise of eBay, DePop, Vinted, Thrift+, Vestiaire Collective et al. That said, the price per garment that one can achieve on most of these platforms is next to nothing. In fact, the postage cost is often more than the garment cost. The effort to put something on sale is often more trouble than it's worth. And the economics bears that out with most of these platforms finding it very hard to turn a profit. 

So. Much. Stuff.

A quick glance at any of these platforms goes to show just how much perfectly good and usable clothing there is out there. And how much dross there is - I'm looking at you, Shein and Temu. And that's the tip of the iceberg. I'm afraid I am guilty of having way too many clothes that could easily last me more than one lifetime. Yes, I need a good clearout, but it also shows how much oversupply there is. I know I am not alone in having too much stuff. And that's just the second-hand clothes sector.

If you look at the new stock availability, it is endless. I recently visited London's Petticoat Lane on a Sunday. There are over a thousand stalls there selling new stock - a lot of it is overstock from High Street and online fashion stores and their suppliers. The amount of stuff available made me feel physically sick. Some of it was relatively high end and being sold for £5 or £10. And this is *overstock*, i.e. surplus to requirements.

And this just leads to waste, mountains of it, since so many clothes end up in landfills, as highlighted in this BBC article and this article by Skyfi.

Shops are everywhere

That brings me to the High Street, both virtual and physical. It's a global shopping mall where you can buy everything and anything - a lot of it very cheaply. There are shops everywhere you look selling you something. There are clothes to be bought everywhere and extended opening hours in many shops meaning fewer staff are working at any one time because they're spread so thinly - the same number (or less) of staff spread over longer hours. (And they wonder why shoplifting is on the increase; well, staffing levels are one of the reasons.) As a former fashion retail manager in the early 1990s, this is something I've been watching evolve over the last 3 decades.

It's the economy, stupid

The retail sector employs a lot of people and the money earned from those jobs pays rent and mortgages, transport, food, holidays, entertainment, utilities and more. It's a hugely important part of our economy. According to Statista approximately 3.5million people work in the retail sector in the UK and information from a recent House of Commons Library research briefing paper states that the economic output of the retail industry was £112.9billion in 2023, accounting for 4.9% of the UK's total output. That's a lot and if it reduces, we have to work out how to manage the shortfall in the economy and what to do with the people who have lost their jobs. It's a not insignificant task.

I get that retailer margins can be very slim. I get that they're in an extremely competitive market, and they need to have enough of the right stock in the right place at the right time. Seriously though, how can it be a positive to be creating so much stuff that will never be bought or used and will just end up in landfill or on some container ship on its way to a poor country and leaving them to deal with the mess. And what about the energy wasted on making stuff no-one is going to buy? Or the time spent thinking up new fast fashion items that nobody wants or needs when that brain power could be going to something more useful and less greedy on our natural resources?

External pressures can force change

The external pressures are changing. The word sustainability crops up all the time. What do we do with the mountains of rubbish we're creating? How do we stop succumbing to fast fashion (which creates stuff that is not attractive to the second-hand market)? And what happens when consumers really do change their attitudes and stop buying nearly so much at all - new or second-hand? There's a lot of talk about reviving our High Streets, but when many of us actively buy less and/or switch to second-hand goods, what happens to our High Streets, and, in turn, the economy?

There are things I really love about the physical retail sector. It's a buzz to be selling to a customer and finding the exact right outfit for them for a special occasion. It's fun to get to know your regular customers and have conversations with new people every day. I love the bright lights and buzz of Oxford Street. And as a consumer, I love wearing new (to me) clothes and putting outfits together. in creative ways. But at what cost? The cumulative effect of my own consumption, multiplied by the millions of other women and men like me is terrifying. Inadvertently, our behaviour has led to this massive oversupply of stuff.

Are we at a tipping point for change? 

Answers on a postcard please..

Meanwhile, you might be interested in taking part in Second Hand September if you're in the UK. 

Wednesday, August 07, 2024

You are what you eat

This phrase, 'You Are What You Eat', keeps coming back to me. I've been thinking about its wider meaning for more than 20 years when mobile and internet advertising started taking off.

The internet tells me that the phrase is thought to have originated in 1826 by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. He wrote, 'Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are'. A similar phrase appeared around 1863 when Ludwig Andreas von Feuerbach wrote, 'man is what he eats'.

Most read these phrases as relating to the fact that the food one eats affects one's state of mind and health. This is a hot topic right now, and I know from my own experiments with the Zoe way of eating that one of the main changes I see when I stick to the principles is a noticeable improvement in my overall mood. 

For me the phrase goes deeper. I would argue 'man is what he consumes'. By consumes, I mean the people, the words, the images, the inane videos, the links clicked, the posters read, the media presented to you by algorithms, as well as the media you actively choose. It's also the people you surround yourself with and the things you choose to do with your time. It's your education - both what you received at school and self-education. The drama that does or doesn't surround you will also have an impact - sometimes you can't help consuming or absorbing what happens around you.

One could also argue 'garbage in, garbage out'.

So, in light of the riots in the UK, fuelled by misinformation and fear, let's take a moment to consider that we are what we consume and to watch what else we consume, by choice or not. 

Tuesday, February 13, 2024

Yes, we're heading back to Barcelona for Swedish Beers! Join me on Wednesday 28 February.

Yes, it's that time of year mobile friends. The GSMA is expecting about 90,000 of us to descent on Barcelona at the end of the month for our annual shindig celebrating all things mobile technology. And thanks to you lovely lot making last year's reunion sooooo good, we are coming back to Barcelona one more time. If you are an executive working in or with the mobile industry please do RSVP. Feel free to share with your friends and colleagues too.

We're back at Space Cowboy as they looked after us so well last year. We'll be open from 7pm until late. No admission after 01:00. We will revert to a pay bar if/when the beer tokens run out. Photo ID (eg. your MWC pass) may be required. We reserve the right to refuse admission. 

The format will be the same as previous years - a relaxed evening, no formalities, no presentations. Please come with an open mind, be prepared to see friends old and new, chat, enjoy a drink or three (courtesy of our sponsors) and have yourself a good time. Oh, and leave the ties, the corporate personas and the sales spiel at the door! There's no need for them here. The Swedish Beers crew and the friendliest bar staff in town will be on hand to welcome you.

If you'd like to support the party by being a sponsor, please get in touch with Helen. The more sponsors, the more beer tokens. Last-minute supporter level options are available allowing you to have your own beer tokens to distribute on the night.

See you in Barcelona.

Skål

Helen and Team Swedish Beers

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Like us on Facebook http://facebook.com/swedishbeers

Follow us on Twitter http://twitter.com/swedishbeers

See our blog for parties past http://swedishbeers.org/

Please note, RSVP'ing here or on Facebook DOES NOT GUARANTEE YOU ENTRY! We managed to get everyone in who wanted to come last year so don't be put off! The queue does move quite quickly. All are welcome to attend if you are working in and around the mobile industry and enjoy a good chat. You may be asked for ID on entry. There might be a queue which usually goes down pretty quickly - Spanish licencing law requires us to keep to a specific capacity. We reserve the right to refuse entry. Beer tokens valid while bar tab lasts. No admission after 01:00.

Tuesday, January 02, 2024

Odd One Out - the Google Arts & Culture Experiment

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic." That's one of Clark's three laws, and "Odd One Out" is proving it according to George Nimeh.

Odd One Out is an interactive game asking you to spot the AI generated image amongst four images presented to you, the other three being images of artworks created wholly by human artists.I have no background in visual art at all, but I did manage to go a few rounds without being out and scored 219. It's not easy though. Instinctively, I could spot some of the AI fakes, but they were not all obvious at all.

Of course, humans have also created the AI images. Prompts have to be written and the image chosen to be presented in the game. The software behind the image generators was created and written by humans. This makes me question where the line is drawn between human art and AI assisted art. It's blurred. And of course, this game or experiment has been created by Caroline Buttet and Emmanuel Durgoni who are both Artists in Residence at Google Arts and Culture Lab. Does that also make the experiment 'art'?

Anyway, I'm interested in what you think of it and how you score. You can find it here: https://artsandculture.google.com/experiment/odd-one-out/wAHNn4JsVTFOiw?hl=en



Tuesday, October 17, 2023

National Theatre to trial 6.30pm start times

I think this is a great idea. The National Theatre is trialling an earlier start time for selected performances - initially on Tuesdays and Thursdays. I'm all for it as it means you either get home earlier or can catch the train home if you live further afield, or there's time to go for dinner afterwards. It also allows the cast, stage management and front-of-house teams to get home a bit earlier. Seems like a win-win to me.

I love everything the National Theatre does - I don't think there's a play I've seen there that I didn't like, and some have been downright fantastic and have well-deserved their transfers to the West End and national tours. Admittedly, I'm biased. I was at youth theatre with Rufus Norris back in the 1980s and I feel immense joy knowing what he has achieved in his time at the National Theatre - he completes his tenure in 2025. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing a new play, Nye, early next year starring Michael Sheen which is about Nye Bevin and the birth of what is now the NHS.

A top tip for getting cheaper tickets to plays at the National - every Friday at 1pm, they release a limited number of tickets for shows the following week for just £10. It's called Friday Rush. More info here and set yourself a reminder in your calendar.

More about the trial of early show times over at WhatsOnStage.



Monday, July 24, 2023

Green Man could stay on for longer at pedestrian crossings in England

I'm pleased to see that the length of time given for someone to cross a road at pedestrian crossings in the UK is to be increased. I walk pretty fast most of the time but even I have difficulty completing crossing the road in time in certain places. When my Mum was alive and aging, she had no chance of crossing the road in the time allotted and we had to hope that drivers would be kind and let us pass. That did mean she restricted where she went on her own and the routes she took in order to reduce the number of main roads she needed to cross.

However, there seems to me to be a flaw in the equation. Research shows that the more densely populated a place is, the quicker they tend to walk. Therefore the average walking speed in Worcester will be different from the walking speed in London. Not only that, but some places will have a higher proportion of people in their vicinity who are less mobile due to age or illness. I hope, therefore, that there will be local nuance in the decisions made.

It may seem like very trivial news to some, but it has the potential to make our streets more accessible to those who walk the most.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-66292145